Monthly Archives: March 2011

Fried Onions

I took a medium red onion and split it, peeled it and cut it about 1/4″ thick. Then marinated it in buttermilk for 1/2 hour. I made my own self-rising flour and dredged the onions, in three batches, in it and fried it at over 300 degrees.

The spider was used to take out the batches and place them on a sheet pan lined with paper towels, and I added a little salt to each batch then threw them into a 250 degree oven to keep warm while the burgers and buns were cooking.

Jim loved the fried onions! They were so light and tasty! I strained the remaining oil through a sieve lined with unprinted paper towels (wondered if a coffee filter would be better) and froze it for another use. Frying isn’t my thing but it was cool to use my new glass bulb thermometer and make a small part of the meal special. Cheers! Dee

Dear Top Chef All-Star

To Richard: Hold your head up. Higher. Go to the UK and learn how to have a stiff upper lip and sip some tea and come back before you get too snooty because that wouldn’t suit you. Use your techniques to make classics better and invent new dishes. Thank goodness you stayed away from foams.

To Michael: I actually began to like you in the end but you were always dismissive when one of the female chefs won a competition. Get over it. Be confident enough in yourself that you can congratulate a competitor who made a better dish then you, male or female. Oh, and I wish I’d have met your grandma because I’d have learned a lot.

To Antonia: You did great, very solid work throughout. No seesawing (is that a word?) on no flavor vs. too much flavor from challenge to challenge. You were bold and put forth bold flavors. Keep up the good work and let viewers know where you are working from time to time.

To Carla: You really put forth the love this season and I hope you’re traveling the world to celebrate your many victories. My husband was born and raised in the south and now I know what southern “soul food” means.

To Fabio: You’re always a favorite. Charming Italians always are. Don’t worry, I’m married, and happily! The ethnic challenges, both Chinese and American, proved fatal but I’d eat your Italian food any day and look forward to seeing you in the front of the house in your restaurant one day.

To Marcel: I hope you grow up and learn to appreciate fellow chefs and sous-chefs. I can’t believe you started a catering company without knowing anything about it, and have your own show! I’d rather see Top Chef Masters. Hint from Dee – Read Dale Carnegie’s “How To Win Friends and Influence People.” It’ll be the best $2.95 you ever spent on a used book from Amazon.

To the rest of you, it was a great season and I thank you for making my Wednesday nights, no because it’s on after my bedtime, my Sunday mornings eventful. Cheers, Dee

Snowmelt

"Our" Cranes?

I’ve spent the past few days trying to get their sounds down on tape, using my iPhone. When they first arrive from New Mexico for the spring/summer nesting phase they call out for each other a lot. After the courting and mating is done, the eggs need 30 days before hatching so one has to guard the egg while the other goes out hunting.

After the baby or “colt” is born, one always has to be with it or a fox or coyote or stoat/ermine could get it. Oh, there may be two, there were last year but one died. Then after the colt gets its legs sturdy enough to accompany the parents, they go out together, the colt following the mother and the dad as the lookout.

Right now they’re in the dancing stage and no-one’s really settled in yet. The snowmelt is happening as it was nearly 60 degrees today.

Huge Snowmelt

We’ve probably had a record amount of snow this year but in the past two weeks much of it has melted into these mountain valleys; we live at 6,400 feet above sea level. Luckily for the ski resorts we’re still getting snow and they have huge bases this year, well over 100″.

The best news is that I got my car cleaned today! It took four months but it’s clean and in our garage. Here you pay extra for a “bottom blast” that is supposed to get all the salt off the undercarriage (no, not mine!) and it looks decent for a three-minute car wash. I’m a happy gal and now have to finish dinner for my love. Cheers, Dee

On Eric and Service

I find it interesting that the CIA (Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park NY) spends such time on and requires its students to learn the front of house. It makes perfect sense. There’s usually a rivalry and hostility between the two. Waiters make tips and dishwashers and cooks start at minimum wage and often have to purchase and launder their uniforms, plus learn Spanish right quick.

When I apprenticed for a month at Cafe Beaujolais in Mendocino I made no money, the waiters gave $1 per plate in a fund for the kitchen staff to divvy up every night but I wasn’t allowed to have any of that either. After I spent my life savings on cooking school, which used to be Peter Kump’s New York Cooking school and is now ICE, the Institute for Culinary Education, I had two choices. One was to microwave hot dogs for four year-old brats at a Long Island yacht club, the second to intern for the legendary Margaret Fox. I chose the latter, thank goodness.

But all my money went into cooking school and I had to get to northern California so had to rent a car for a month, then find a place to live. A motel was OK for two days but I wasn’t finding anything so one of the waiters set me up in his place, as he and his girlfriend had just moved to a larger cabin on the property. They left me a bed, sheets, blankets, a few kitchen items and a ton of wood to split. Trying to split one log almost cut off a leg so I reverted to the supermarket bundles that kept me warm until 2-3 in the morning, then I froze.

It was wonderful to work all the stations in the kitchen except the stove. Chef wouldn’t let me. But I also worked making breads and pizzas in the Brickery. It was also great to teach them how to bind a chicken for roasting. I was the chicken bondage Queen! My first chore Wedsneday prep nights (dinner was served Thursday through Sunday) was to prep the chickens, which meant cutting off the necks and feet. My version was to take 2/3 of the wing off to be properly trussed. Once done, I had to rush the pans to the chef for roasting and eventual stock.

A lot of time was spent dealing with apples and pears, as it was harvest season. Also, I pressed a lot of pate sucre (sweet short pastry) into molds. I was poor as a church mouse but did get to eat before or after my shift. If I made staff meal, I stayed for staff meal so that helped with costs.

No, I did not get to do service in this restaurant but I do know how important it is. Consider the following story:

My father and I were at the Algonquin Hotel in NYC for lunch one day in the mid-1980′s. He recognized the maitre d’hotel and acknowledged such. He was told he was mistaken. There was a line to get in and while we waited my father knew he recognized this man from The Palm, at The Plaza Hotel. He mentioned it again and the man demurred, then said it was his brother. Finally as we were seated he told us that yes, he used to be at the Plaza. It was a step down, to him, and he didn’t want to be found out. But he was a great maitre d’ and I’ve never forgotten the Algonquin’s goulash that day.

Service, cheers, Dee

Avec Eric

When I sat down to lunch today, I turned on Avec Eric, a 1/2 hour show with a book that I bought about a year ago and hate the small print. Today’s topic was service, with stops at the CIA (Culinary, not Langley), Le Bernardin, and the kitchen where he as a cook prepared crepes and sauce. Then as a waiter, he finished Crepes Suzette and brought it (fictitiously) to the diner.

Of all the chefs I’ve seen and not met, I find Eric Ripert to be at the top of his game, a perfectionist, always learning, and at heart, a kind soul. Kind soul is not something most chefs are known for. He may scream at his staff but I don’t see it and would prefer not to see such behavior. I believe he’s built up a kitchen brigade and front of the house staff that realize the importance of their work as he creates the whole dining experience. Accolades build up and yet his reputation is not larger than himself, he is a silver fox who seems comfortable in his skin.

Thank you Bravo, for bringing us talent to watch and sadly, not taste. Seeing excellent chefs compete, the diversity of their dishes and quality of the judges makes good tv but it also makes my meals better. I now have zatar, smoked paprika, achiote, sriracha and kejap manis in my pantry. Oops, must update my pantry item blogs, not that anyone ever reads them. Check them out, a five-part series. Also cookbooks, I looked at many and chose few and many are available for just a few dollars. No, I don’t sell them, but there are links on each to Amazon. Cheers, it’s nearly fifty degrees today, HOT! Dee

Top Chef All-Stars

Don’t tell me. I’m sure everyone in the country has seen it before me. It comes on at eleven here and I’ll try to stay awake for it. Please don’t tell me who won.

I’ve enjoyed the way this series was professionally produced, without a lot of house drama. It is inspiring to see how the chefs interpret and execute challenges, as well as the way they’re judged. This year, I’ve also enjoyed some of the blogs especially for the episodes I’ve missed.

Chef Eric Ripert is the consummate professional and I’d love to be able to go to Le Bernardin one day. Tom Colicchio is a master and congrats on his new baby. And you’ve got to love Anthony Bourdain, bad boy made good (for now at least).

The deal was sealed two months ago but tonight we’ll find out if self-flagellator Richard or misogynist Mike will take the cake. Some choice! Let’s see tomorrow. I’d never last two minutes on that show. Cheers, Dee

Semi-Homemade?

Perish the thought. If anyone calls me Sandra Lee, who can’t tell a solid spoon from a slotted one, I’ll be very hurt.

I’ve been going back to basics lately because my dear husband has not really liked certain new creations. A couple of weeks ago I tried sweet Italian sausage and he liked it so tried it again, poached then grilled then with anything he wanted on the grilled bun.

He also loves baked beans and not the home-cooked variety so I used a large can of brand-name beans (my dog might know the company from word of pooch), crisped up a few slices of bacon and shredded some good cheddar cheese. I mixed it all in a bowl and baked it in the oven until the cheese melted. He tends to ask for carrot chips instead of fries at one restaurant we frequent, and I think it’s more for the shape as it’s a gaufrette or waffle chip. I shredded carrots and added some of his favorite ranch dressing, salt and pepper and he loved it.

So tonight I’m baking some baby back ribs that will go on the grill with a Texas BBQ sauce for five minutes, heating the beans in individual crocks in the oven and finishing off the carrot slaw. Now you can tell Jim’s mother that he’s actually eating leftovers!

Oh, I use equal amounts salt, pepper and paprika as a dry rub, plus a pinch of sugar. BBQ sauce only goes on after one side has been grilled.

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A couple of months ago I started working for an organization that rescues animals and sends them to good homes. Today I was loved by three kitties (have to wash all my clothes the moment I get home because Jim is allergic to cats) and they were so sweet and need to be adopted. Next time you or your kids are looking for a pet please choose a local shelter. No matter what, please spay/neuter your pets. It makes a difference. thanks and hope you are having a great day! Cheers, Dee

The Soup was Good

Curried butternut squash soup. That’s what one makes with the contents of the weekly surprise package. Problem is the contents have been nearly identical for two weeks now so I don’t think I’ll order one tomorrow.

My oven has been giving me fits for over a year now. First it ran really hot, like 100-150 degrees above the setting. So I bought an oven thermometer. The daily question was “what is 350 degrees today?” It was always a surprise. Now it’s fluctuating, I open the door after I get the temp right then it goes down 50-75 degrees.

I actually had a three pound chicken in there for two hours and the juices looked good and the skin was crispy but the breast was raw. No, I don’t normally cook a 3# chicken that long but it’s very frustrating to try to keep a failing oven at the temp I want it to be. Now I can’t even cook a stew in there because it may be raw when I take it out three hours later.

Do you remember the cute commercials with the Lonely Maytag Repair Man? Well, they’re not lonely any more. I looked up the manual and they had a number for warranty service. This range is no longer under warranty so I looked them up online. I called the service number and was on hold for ten minutes. When a human answered, she asked if I wanted to buy a new range. She said I called “Sales” and got rid of me in a heartbeat transferring me to “Service” without giving a number. They told me the wait would be over ten minutes. So I sent an email with my phone number and someone is supposed to call me in three days. I’m not holding my breath.

What ever happened to customer service? Having a working oven is important for a cook. I’m changing menus to be able to cook on the stove. It just doesn’t make any sense. Hope you’re having a better day. Dee

Bereavement Study

I just answered a questionnaire about bereavement for a study. I answered essay questions honestly and it brought things back from 2 1/2 years ago when my mother died. I never thought of it as bereavement. Studying the word it means bereft. I am not bereft of a mother any more than when she lived. So I’ve always been bereft, it’s a constant.

Seeing it is differrent. The morphine, the nurses, the doctor (yea! she rated a doctor), the volunteers, people who bathed her and clothed her while we conducted the vigil yet while she was bathed and dressed we got to go out to lunch.

Many years ago I organized a chorus in college to go to the hospitals over the holidays and sing for the patients. Seeing these patients I cried so much I could barely sing. And that was when people had health insurance and longer stays. Now patients are really sick if they stay overnight and I flew there multiple times to see my mother in the hospital or help her transition to home care.

Our best time together was when I helped her transition in the early years, when I went out to get her tomato juice and a NY Times in the morning and made and froze tons of chicken stock. I cooked good meals that put some meat on those bones and even froze chicken stock in ice cube trays. After my week’s stay, she’d tell my sisters that “Dee used to make it from scratch.” That’s probably the nicest thing she ever said about me.

After she died I volunteered to comply with her request for the eye tissue bank, which meant her body had to go to a facility before being cremated. It was a long questionnaire I had to do by phone a few hours after my mother’s death, then transport arranged and one sibling denied Mom’s request and wouldn’t release the body. It worked out, just a mis-communication on their part. All I can say is have things arranged. Make sure you have a will, a living will, a dnr or whatever you want. My mother did not do so and her children argued over nothing and probably because we were grieving.

I like to think I’m OK but I still think of her often, luckily I try to remember the good times as a kid, when she watched us out at the pool or honked the horn three times to get us out of the creek and home to wash our hands before dinner. Cheers, Dee

Surprise!

Being in the hinterlands, I have some items brought to my door weekly, including milk,eggs, bacon, sausage, butter, breads and sometime a surprise box. It used to be all organic. In the harsh winters that is difficult to do here.

Today I used a huge butternut squash, and an apple from last week’s treasures. I roasted the squash with an onion for an hour with olive oil, salt and pepper. Then I turned the squash and put them atop the oven to cool. The onions were not done enough so I cut them down further and sauteed them with apple pieces. I also toasted garam masala in a dry pan to add to the soup as needed.

I first used the food processor to mix the onions and apples, that had gotten a dose of chicken broth to hasten their softening. Then I processed the pulp of the butternut squash I’d taken off the skin with a spoon, with more chicken broth.

The pulps were added to a large pot and started to boil and sputter almost immediately. I added more broth and 1/3 of the curry seasoning. More broth, then some fresh apple juice I happened to have on hand and more of the curry seasoning. About 1/4 cup of heavy cream and the rest of the curry seemed to work. I added a bit of salt, pepper and cayenne and we were good to go.

This is why I don’t write recipes for you, or copy others. Sometimes I want to give you a great recipe but will be sued for doing so.

Perhaps my age allows me to create whatever culinary confections that come to mind. And we all know a mind is a terrible thing to waste. Cheers, Dee