Daily Archives: December 9, 2009

Grapes, Yes, Again

That’s what you seem to want! I’d like to show you a comment from the original post:

“One of the people responsible for developing those grape varieties you spoke about was Gary Woodbury, a former chemistry teacher at FHS and owner of Woodbury fruit farms. Welch’s didn’t always treat local farmers well, and having other options became desirable. He and my dad (and others?) ran experiments with lots of strangely-named grapes and made wine for years. I remember wathcing the tastings at dinner: uncork it, talk about it for a half an hour, and then grimace and spit when it was horrible. Several worked out well though, and Gary left teaching to become a vintner for a while as the operation grew. They had a spumanti and a champagne that was pretty good, and western NY State is on the map in the world of wine.”

Woodbury Vineyards is on the Seaway Trail. If you ever get to NY State please start in Chautauqua County (it’s 1.5 hours west of the Buffalo airport but worth it) and make sure not to miss the Adirondacks. We took a trip up there a few years ago with Jim’s folks and it’s something we’ll all remember fondly (I hope). Niagara Falls is a powerful reminder of what water can do, as well as the Erie Canal, Finger Lakes et al.

The comment came from a gentleman I grew up with and knew in grade school. I think we had a mutual crush on each other in the fifth grade and he even carved me a wooden violin but was too shy to give it to me. We touched base nearly ten years ago and he’s a great guy, architect and pilot, smart guy. I wish him well in his endeavors and will have to let him know how the grape dishes turn out! Cheers, Dee

German Food

My father grew up speaking German at home. For some time, his parents spoke only German. When Dad married, his mother taught my mother some recipes that we still have in the family. Hopefully I’ve got some of them in a box I never opened from my mother’s estate, as we moved the next day and our lives were in turmoil.

Rouladen is sliced beef around a carrot, slice of onion and seasonings that is seared then braised. It was never a favorite of mine and I’ve never made it, don’t have a recipe but could figure it out easily. Soup with farina balls, the “treasures” my sister hid because she hated them. Rice pudding.

My favorite was kugelhopf, a lemon-laced quick bread with raisins, baked in a bundt-type pan. I tried to get the recipe from Mom before she died but was unsuccessful, and have not had online success either. Mom always added enough flour, sugar and eggs in stages until it looked right. Now that I think of it, I never saw her make it but always asked if I could watch so I could get the proportions and technique right. Go out and play, you crazy kid! No, she never said that but thought it, I’m sure. Today, I’d love to make two breads, one to eat, cold or even better toasted; another for a bread pudding with creme anglaise laced with cognac.

We never made Sauerbraten. In college I looked up the recipe and we actually had room at home to marinate beef for four days. Now, sadly, I do not. When we were kids we lived in the middle of nowhere and drove further into nowhere to go to the only German restaurant in the county. That’s where we had our birthday dinners. That’s where I tried Schnitzel, latkes, and Sauerbraten. It was an incredible treat. One time I was driving with a colleague from a meeting in the Finger Lakes back home and we stopped in Binghampton NY, at a German restaurant. Even though that was over 20 years ago I still remember that Sauerbraten with red cabbage and applesauce. Perhaps someday, hopefully my Dad will be visiting, I’ll try to replicate that meal.

For me, perhaps my mother’s signature dish was what she made for our birthdays. We got a birthday request and the smart ones among us four chose her Viennese Chocolate Torte. It was a nut-based genoise with a milk chocolate ganache filling and dark chocolate glaze. Very complex flavorings for a child but something I’d love to make someday.

We grew up with lebkuchen, a German/Swiss variety of spicy cakes we received each year (stale because of shipping, waiting until Christmas when we got it in September then waiting until each of us wrote our own thank-you note before nibbling) that I’ve bought as treats for my husband’s family. They were returned because the Southern palate is unaccustomed to such “savory” desserts. I love them, which is why I love the Torte.

My mother and sisters were always the dessert people. I always cooked snacks, appetizers and main and side dishes. Interesting that my sense memories are mainly about desserts! My mother-in-law makes fantastic desserts and is called upon to make wedding cakes for family and friends near her home.

No photos, and I can’t even think of German food I cook today, it’s mostly Italian or Greek or French or downright American. Thanks for reading. Tune in tomorrow. If you want me to opine on a particular subject, let me know. Cheers, Dee

Can-can

Years ago I was working at 41st and 5th in Manhattan, opposite the infamous library lions. The building next door had a deli downstairs that made fantastic sandwiches and a couple of times per week I’d go there and pick up lunch and a soda to have at my desk.

One day, the proprietor had on the radio as usual, but the line was longer than usual. Someone said they recognized the music and I agreed but couldn’t put my finger on it. The owner said he’d buy lunch the next day for the patron with the correct name of the composer and song. People guessed, and all of a sudden, out of nowhere I blurted out “Orpheus in the Underworld, by Offenbach.” Whatever long-term memories are tucked into that brain of mine I do not know. They surprise me all the time.

A couple days later my turkey sandwich was on the house! It was the Can-can dance that everyone can sing but no-one knows the operetta or composer. Sheer dumb luck, perhaps, but it’s the only thing I’ve ever won in my life and five bucks when you’re trying to live alone in NYC is a gift.

Now I want to tell you about a sandwich I loved, even before I moved to NYC. There was a basement restaurant on my street with a vegetarian sandwich. It started with 12-grain hearty bread and included layers of (forgive me I don’t recall the layering) raw spinach, thinly-sliced mushrooms, tomato, perfect-temperature Brie, alfalfa sprouts… that’s all I remember. Our food delivery folks came last week with a beautiful loaf of oat-topped ten-grain bread and I’m thinking of making this sandwich. For a meat and potato guy, go figure.

I thought you might like to hear about those memories. Shall I tell you about Sauerbraten and red cabbage? Maybe next post.