Daily Archives: June 5, 2008

Kitchen Disasters

Jim\'s Glasgow BreakfastI’ve gotten better over the years, but there have been a couple of doozies. Today I heard from my cousin John. Many years ago I had him over for dinner and wanted to roast a chicken. I had one of those small, gas apartment stoves. He showed up at my door, and I took the chicken out of the oven to rest. It looked fantastic, the skin brown and crusty. Several minutes later, I went to carve and the meat was raw! As I recall, I cut up the chicken and pan-fried it ’til done. Of course, John will never let me forget the great chicken debacle – the night the pilot light went out.

Ten years later, I was visiting my family and decided to make a turkey and corn chili. It called for chiles and I’d just bought some really pretty Thai bird chiles at the farmer’s market, that I’d never used before. I used 1/3 of what the recipe called for. That chili was so hot it was inedible! I added everything but the kitchen sink to it over the next few days trying to tame the fire, to no avail.

Then there are the dangerous disasters, like cutting off the top of my finger with a serrated knife, slicing a roll for dinner. I called Mike, and by the time I got to their house, less than 60 seconds later, he already had the dining table outfitted like a paramedic’s truck. He’s ex-Army Ranger and doesn’t mess around. His wife Dana sat in the den facing the other way because she can’t stand the sight of blood. Mike started with a green tea poultice. It took weeks to get better because every time I shifted my Jeep it opened up again. It’s OK now, kind of numb, but it took the salty seas of Ionia to heal it for good. Enough of the bad memories.

Oh well, it’s how we learn. I was bad at my Easy Bake Oven as well. First time I made pretzels and they were gooey and stuck to my hands so were thrown out. If I’d just known to add flour they would have been ok, but I was five years old. I did make a chocolate cake that turned out well. Cooking with a 120 watt light bulb, what an invention!

Keep cooking, no matter the number of kitchen disasters (unless you’re a danger to yourself or others). Above is Jim’s Glasgow breakfast of sunny side eggs, smoked and cured pancetta, toast with jam and English Breakfast Tea. No, he can’t cook, so the kitchen is all mine wherever we go.

Grandmother’s Cuke Salad

1 European (seedless) cucumber, thinly sliced (I trim 1/2 of the skin)

Add salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar and a splash of apple cider vinegar.

Let marinate in the frig for a couple of hours.

Sorry, Grandma died before I was a year old so I couldn’t talk about specifics. Dad loves this dish. Let’s dedicate it to Dr. Bob.

Dee’s Pantry, Volume 4

STAPLES

  • Sugar, white and brown and confectioners
  • Worcestershire sauce (its ancestor was Garum, from Apicius)
  • Ketchup
  • Coffee/Tea
  • Olive oil, extra virgin, preferably green or novello
  • oil for cooking, neutral like Canola
  • Mayonnaise
  • Salsa
  • Marinades
  • Sesame oil (roasted)
  • Yeast
  • Mushrooms (dried porcini)
  • Oil spray for greasing pans
  • Peanut butter
  • Crackers, assorted
  • Soy sauce
  • BBQ Sauce (I like Stubbs)

Now Vinegars:

  • Distilled white
  • Apple cider, a must for cucumbers
  • Balsamico, mechanically produced for everyday
  • OK if you want to spend a fortune, get the balsamic aged syrup but only use it on fruit
  • White wine and champagne vinegars
  • Sherry vinegar from Jerez, Spain (remarkable flavor)

Please note that I don’t buy salsa in a jar. If my neighbors thought I did, I couldn’t live here any longer. Also marinades, like vinaigrettes, are made by hand and on the fly.

I prefer to buy yeast in industrial-sized boxes and share them with friends – always taking note of the perishable date. This way I don’t have to proof the yeast except for the first time.

Mushrooms are wonderful in a risotto. Take out a clean cooking paintbrush and clean every whole wonderful slice and brush it. Do not buy your cooking paintbrushes at Sur La Table, but at Home Depot or its equivalent! Do not let your spouse raid your kitchen drawer for paintbrushes or other paraphernalia!

This will be an interesting challenge to come up with recipes for you.

More on kitchen tools will follow.

Recipes, Pantry Volume 3

Macaroni and Cheese

  • 1 lb shells or farfalle or other pasta
  • 2 C milk
  • 3T flour
  • 3T butter
  • salt, pepper, cayenne, nutmeg
  • 1/3 lb sharp cheddar, grated
  • sliced tomatoes or canned tomatoes
  • bread crumbs
  • Parmigiano Reggiano, grated

Start the pasta water boiling. Melt butter and add seasonings, flour and cook to make a Bechamel sauce. Once thickened add cheese off the heat. Drain pasta, mix with Bechamel and place in baking dish. I like to add a layer of tomatoes halfway. Top with shaved parmesan and breadcrumbs and bake for 30 minutes at 350 degrees or until bubbly.

Dee’s Pantry, Volume 3

Herbs and Spices

  • salt
  • pepper
  • cayenne
  • thyme
  • oregano
  • marjoram
  • sage
  • rosemary
  • basil
  • cumin
  • chili powder
  • garam masala (curry)
  • crushed red pepper
  • nutmeg (whole)
  • vanilla

Salt has become an interesting commodity these days. Do you want Himalayan pink or Hawaiian black? For the first half of my life I used the pourable one with the girl with the umbrella. Since then I’ve used Kosher salt, which I keep in a bowl next to the stove. No, not in a $50 rosewood box from Mr. Napa Chic.

As to pepper, only whole peppercorns and get a good grinder on which you can change the grind from fine to coarse according to your needs.

Buy the smallest amounts possible of the herbs you use the least. If they turn yellow, throw them out and start again.

Buy a microplane. Use it to grate fresh nutmeg, plus many other kitchen uses.

Vanilla beans are a wonderful thing. Buy as you need them and place the used pods in sugar so you have vanilla sugar for coffee or other uses.

Saffron, I didn’t include this one because it’s so special. NEVER buy powdered saffron. If you’re making paella please buy 1/4 oz of the best saffron possible. You want individual stamens you can see.

Please see former list for bay leaves, which I prefer to buy fresh once a year, rinse, dry and freeze for soups et al.

Stay tuned for the next issue….

Scotland

My husband and I were fortunate enough to be sent to Scotland for work for three months just last year. While no-one in the UK seems to be able to make a decent burger, there are other assets at hand.

We lived in a flat just off George Square in Glasgow and my US girlfriend and I toured twice a week and then we went on weekend jaunts as well.

Interestingly, the Scots make great Italian pizzas. Our favorite place was on Italian Square off George Square – Piazza Italia. Don’t go to the bar on the corner, but head in to the no-traffic street and look to your right and Rocco will be looking for you. He has great pizzas and mussels. Careful, Rocco is formerly a carabinieri in Florence. He’s also a sweetheart who treated us very well during the months we lived next door.

The Mussel Inn is a treat, mussels by weight, with your choice of sauce. Incredible. Just go and slurp mussels and eat French bread.

Pizza in the hole, is a downstairs eatery/brewery along the main streets, Republic Bier Halle. Check it out online http://www.qype.co.uk/place/136718-Republic-Bier-Halle-Glasgow.

During our time there this may be the best photo I took, inside Glasgow Cathedral, St. Mungo’s place. Do yourself a favor and visit Scotland. There is so much history in the castles (Stirling, Edinburgh) and churches (Melrose, Rosslyn) and museums that you’ll never want for something to do. You don’t need to golf to be amazed at the color of the grass and, in the spring, the rapeseed fields you’ll see on the train.

Make sure to visit castles Craigmillar, Doune (of Monty Python fame) and Linlithgow, birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Enjoy!

Dee’s Essential Pantry, Vol. 2

Fresh foods to always have on hand:

  • eggs
  • garlic
  • onion
  • carrot
  • celery
  • olives
  • potatoes
  • ginger
  • lemons
  • lettuce
  • butter – unsalted
  • parmigiano-reggiano
  • sour cream
  • bay leaves – buy fresh, wash and freeze in a zip bag

Grains:

  • unbleached white flour
  • wheat flour
  • pasta (a variety)
  • instant couscous
  • converted rice
  • brown rice
  • Arborio rice for risotto
  • instant Polenta
  • cornstarch

Dee’s Pantry Recipes, Vol. 1

Pissaladiere

This is a “pizza” from southern France. Make pizza dough (food processor dough for two pizzas is 2.5 c flour, 1 t salt; make yeast mixture of 1 C tepid water, 1 pkg yeast, a pinch of sugar and 1T olive oil). Process and let rise. Punch down, divide and make two tight balls and let sit 20 minutes before rolling out.

While dough is rising take four large onions, slice them thinly and set in a pan to sweat then caramelize, adding a pinch of sugar after sweating. I add thyme, salt and pepper. Thyme smells so good with onions.

When dough is rolled out and in the pan, add caramelized onions, and top with crisscrossed anchovies.

This is a great appetizer cut into diamonds with crusts cut off. The onions are sweet, the anchovies salty and it is a hit at any party as long as the fish-allergy people know to avoid it as the anchovies on top should be a clue.

White Bean Salad

2 cans Cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

1/2 red onion, diced

1/4 lb dry Italian Salame, diced

splash red wine vinegar

Fresh sage

Olive oil

salt and pepper

Make, mix and set in refrigerator to marinate at least 1-2 hours.

Let salad come to room temperature before serving.

Dee’s Essential Pantry, Vol. 1

First off is canned goods.

  • whole tomatoes
  • anchovies in oil
  • broth (boxed, low salt)
  • white beans
  • olives (bottled Kalamata)
  • tuna (preferably Italian in olive oil)
  • capers
  • tomato paste (in a tube if you don’t use it much)

Whole tomatoes in a can are better than unripe tomatoes that have been shipped long distances. I use San Marzano tomatoes from Italy or Hunt’s from right here. The key is to use beefsteak tomatoes for eating and for burgers, and use plum tomatoes for sauces as there’s more “meat” on the tomato instead of juiciness.

One can buy salted anchovies at specialty stores but if you seldom use them, get the best quality canned anchovies possible and they’ll last a long time unopened.

Broth can be tricky. I normally do not buy vegetable broth because I haven’t found a brand I like. Organic chicken broth is in my frig, in a 1 qt. container because the dog has about 4 Tbsp per day and I steal for cooking. You can also buy the glace that you take out a Tbsp and add water for sauces. This is especially helpful if you’re living in a NYC apartment and have little frig space. Go for lower salt so you can control the taste you want to serve your family and guests.

White beans are a wonder in the kitchen because you can make a salad in no time. Or take boxed chicken broth and add veggies and a drained can of beans and you have a very quick soup.

Kalamatas made me love olives for the first time in my life. I buy a large container at the “olive bar” then drain them, put them back into the container and add rosemary, thyme, garlic and red pepper flakes and top it off with good olive oil. Let marinate a few days. Serve the olives, save the olive oil and use it.

Tuna is always a good can to have around. Salade Nicoise is a safe bet.

Tomato paste is a great ingredient. I hate to buy the 6 oz cans only to try to save it and it molds in the frig. So if you’re not cooking for an army, buy good tomato paste in a tube and keep it in the frig.

Keep cooking! Recipes to follow.